Sewing · Fit · Trousers
Sewing trousers in corduroy, denim & co.: adjusting the pattern for firm fabrics
You've sewn a pair of trousers in linen, they fit perfectly – and now you'd like to make them in corduroy or denim? Then you're often in for a surprise: the same trousers suddenly feel tight, the waistband slips down at the back and folds appear below the seat. Here you'll find out why that happens and how to adjust your pattern for firm, heavy fabrics step by step. I'm using my Limfjord chinos as the example.
Background
Which fabrics count as firm and heavy?
This means woven fabrics that are dense and sturdy and barely give, for example:
- Corduroy – needlecord, babycord or wide wale
- Denim
- Cotton twill, chino fabric and gabardine
- Canvas and duck
- Moleskin and velvet
- Wool fabrics such as flannel, tweed or loden
Why
Why the same trousers fit differently in a firm fabric
Every pattern is a little larger than your body. This ease determines how loosely the trousers fit. On a tapered style like Limfjord it is deliberately small over the seat and thighs:
| Size 38 | Body | Finished | Ease |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hips | 97 cm | 105 cm | +8 cm |
| Thigh | 58.5 cm | 61.5 cm | +3 cm |
Linen gives a little thanks to its weave, so that's enough. With firm, heavy fabrics, two things come into play:
- Thickness: thick fabric, pile and bulky seam allowances take up room on the inside. The trousers end up tighter than the pattern measurements suggest.
- Weight: heavy fabric doesn't drape softly against the body – it stands away and pulls downwards. If length is missing at the back, the waistband drops even more noticeably.
A few per cent of elastane helps a little, but it doesn't make up for the missing room.
Step 1
Cut one size up
Cut the front trouser, back trouser and waistband one size larger than you would for linen. This gives you the room the thick fabric needs over the hips and thighs. For trousers with an elasticated waist, cut the elastic to your usual size – it draws the slightly wider waistband in to your waist.
Step 2
Lengthen the back rise
If the waistband sits too low at the back and dips towards the back in side view, the back is too short. Add this length at the centre back only. The side seam and the front trouser stay unchanged.
- Put on your toile and measure how much length is missing at the centre back up to the correct waistband height. It's usually 2–3 cm.
- Below the back pocket, cut the back trouser straight across from the centre back to the seam line of the side seam. Keep the seam allowance at the side seam intact.
- Pivot the upper part at the pivot point until the centre back opens by your amount, and tape paper underneath.
- Redraw the centre back as a straight line blending into the crotch curve. Square the top edge at the centre back.
Step 3
Sew and check a toile
Make your toile in a fabric that is as similar as possible to your final fabric. A toile fabric without stretch will always fit more snugly than one with stretch.
| What you see | What you do |
|---|---|
| The waistband sits level at the back. | It fits – no further changes. |
| There is too much room at the front or sides. | Pin out the excess at the side seam and transfer it evenly to the front and back trouser. |
| The waistband still dips at the back. | Lengthen the centre back again by the missing amount. |
| Diagonal folds run below the seat towards the inner thighs. | Lengthen the back crotch point, see step 4. |
Step 4 · only if needed
Lengthen the back crotch point
If diagonal folds remain below the seat, the seat needs more room at the back crotch. Lengthen the crotch point of the back trouser by 0.5–1 cm. Redraw the crotch curve smoothly to the new point and blend the inside leg seam to about knee level. Don't change the front trouser.
Sewing tips
Tips for sewing firm, heavy fabrics
Waistband with a lightweight inner waistband: a waistband made of a double layer of heavy fabric with elastic inside becomes very bulky. Split the waistband along the fold line and add a 1.5 cm seam allowance to both halves. Cut the outer waistband from your main fabric and the inner waistband from lightweight cotton.
- Cut the pocket bags from lightweight cotton or lining, not from the main fabric.
- Trim seam allowances where seams cross, for example at the crotch seam, to about 0.7 cm. This reduces bulk.
- Nap direction on corduroy, velvet and moleskin: lay all pieces in the same direction, otherwise they'll look like different shades.
- Pressing: press pile fabrics such as corduroy and velvet from the wrong side only, with a towel underneath. Press wool fabrics with a damp cloth.
- Hem: finish the raw edge and turn it up once only, not twice.
- Needle: use a jeans needle (size 90–100, for canvas and denim also 100–110) and a slightly longer stitch length (3 mm).
To take away
Everything as a PDF – and the matching pattern
You'll find all the steps with drawings in the free extra guide for Limfjord. The Limfjord pattern is a pair of relaxed women's chinos in sizes EU 30–60. In the sewing video I show you the whole pair of trousers step by step (German audio, English subtitles available).
Download the extra guide (PDF)To the Limfjord patternWatch the Limfjord sewing video
With these changes, your trousers will fit as well in corduroy, denim or wool as they do in linen. If you're unsure, send me photos of your toile from the front, side and back at mail@seamone.de.
Simo
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